Maandag 29 Julie 2013

My 2nd trip to beautiful Turkiye




This blog is dedicated to my beloved friend who is also my travel advisor. When he encouraged me to make blog about my travel to Turkiye, i thought that i don't know much about this country. Still he insisted, only this much all i know :)

Turkiye is a very beautiful country with nice people every where you meet. You don't need to worry of getting lost because everyone will be happy to help you show the directions. There are many information offices for tourists if you somehow need more explanations for the pamphlet, map & destination. The estimate population is 75,627,384 in 2013, Of course major population registered as Muslim. One thing i noticed during my travel across the cities was the information board on the side road about population (nüfus) of the city you are entering.  

The country who is blessed to have founding father such Mustafa Kemal Pasha better known as Atatürk - the 1stpresident of Republic of Turkey. I just begin to know his profile when i visited Anıtkabir and watched the "Dersimiz: Atatürk " - Thanks to my dear friend for this.
If you want to get more sources about Atatürk, you may see this Documentary


Actually this film released in 2010 but still I recommend this DVD to all of you. There was 1 good scene about moving (sliding) Atatürk's house few meters away just because the giant tree grown across the building. Instead of cutting the branch of the tree, he challenged the respected engineers & architects to solve the problem without hurting the tree. Well, this scene kind of remind me the current issue that raised on May 23rd in Gezi park, Istanbul. I was a bit worry to go at first knowing that the clash between the protesters and the police has caused 3 people died on June 13th (i departed on the 14th). But luckily nothing happened there during my trip. The protesters were still gather at Taksim square and some of the outskirt area. Everything went peacefully, in a way. Below is showing the activity at Hacıbektaş, formerly Karahüyük, a town and district of Nevşehir Province





In this blog, some information i got during my trip & some i found from references as stated. This is merely to share so that you can be a savvy traveler in Turkiye especially if you really interested in history. Don't forget to bring USB drive on your own, suddenly you will become a photographer because you don't want to missed any corner without taking it photographed. I regret one thing that i left my DSLR because i thought its weight will limit my movement. It  was too many excuses not to bring my canon EOS D60 because i travel alone in the riots situation. Believe me, u must bring your DSLR. Your pictures will look much way better than what i'll show you in this blog.

This time i really enjoyed a lot my trip.  Because i don't have to bother apply visa since 2yrs ago Indonesian may enter Turkiye with Visa on Arrival (USD 25). Another reasons are the places i visited this time was not commonly places offered by most tour agent. Had more free time to experience the transportation such as trams, bus & underground railway/ tunnel.




The story of the Tunnel which is the second oldest underground system in the World after the London Underground started with the French engineer Eugene Henri Gavand’s initiative. Engineer Gavand obrserved people shuttling between Galata & Pera, the financial & trade centres of the city bat that time & thought about an alternative way to Yuksek Kildrim & Galip Dede Street, 2 streets connecting these centers. He was accepted by Sultan Abdulaziz the Ottoman Empire to present his elevating railway project to connect these 2 centres & he was granted construction permission for the Tunnel on June 10, 1869. The Tunnel was built through “Built- Operator-Transfer” model with the operation term of 42 years.
The construction of the Tunnel started on June 30, 1871. A company of British origin namely “The Metropolitan Railway of Constantinople from Galata to Pera” was established to operate the Tunnel & registered in July 1872. The construction was completed on December 05, 1874. The initial trial runs were carried out with aninals on board only. The normal runs to serve people started then, at a cost of 10 para (The Ottoman currency in coins) per person. The Tunnel was officially inaugurated through a magnificent ceremony with the participation of distinguished native & foreign guests on January 17, 1875.
The inial cost of the Tunnel was 180.000 Ottoman Lira. The installation was powered by 2 steam engines of 150 HP. The wagons with 2 sides open used to be illuminated by gas lamps as no electricity was available in those years.
After the electrically powered streetcars were introduced in Istanbul in 1910, the operating company was transformed into an Ottoman company named “Dersaadet Mulhakatindan Galata ve Beyogly Beyninde Tahtel’arz Demiryolu” The Tunnel was nationalized on March 01, 1939 by the state at the cost of 175,000 Turkish Lira & was handed over to Istanbul General Directorate of Electricity, Streetcar & Tunnel Operations (IETT) which was established by the law 3645 dated June 16, 1939.The Tunnel was out of operation for about 3,5 months during the second world war due to the shortage of spare parts. It was completely renovated to its present structure by a French company named Electro Entreprises at the cost of 33.000.000 Turkish Lira. The Tunnel utilizes 2 wagons of 16m long, each running in the opposite direction at the same time, carrying a total of 170 people in 90 seconds over a distance of 573m. The Tunnel is run by electric power of 350 HP.
The Tunnel provided great convenience for the people of Istanbul in the last years of the Ottoman Empire & in the early years of the Republic. It still offers people a brief but enjoyable & nostalgic trip, linking Karakoy & Beyoglu with quiet steps everyday.


The number of passengers carried workdays are over 10.000 people.The length of the line is 570 meters, 1 min 20'' travel time










Turkiye is left driving, the first 2 digit on the plate number indicate the region. For example: 38 for Kayseri, 35 for Izmir, 34 for Istanbul, 22 for Edirne, 06 for Ankara, 07 for Antalya, etc





Road cleaner vehicle (top left) & local market



Wow, this one really reminds me of Indonesia, i coincided with the Sünnet festivali (circumcision) day in Istanbul. Yeah...this is a school holidays and as a major moslem population country, Turkiye held Sünnet festivali.Unlike in Indonesia which is usually provided by certain company as their CSR program, in Turkiye Generally organized by the local municipalities, mostly for the boys of the poor families. The ages 5 or 7 or 9 or 11 boy will wear a costume... really cute, make the boy looks so happy instead of showing the painful face






I'm not a frequent traveler nor an expert who has broad knowledge about certain countries in tourism industry. I just fall in love with this country from the first time i visited in 2010. They took seriously in preserving their heritage shown in well managed museums all across the country. The restoration of several archaeological sites was underway during my visit. 
I hope this lil sharing will be useful for some of you esp. for the beginner traveler. As for my fellow country, i wished that someday our beloved Indonesia may have the sense of awakening in appreciating our culture. Enjoy the reading & your comments are welcome!


note: red star is the cities i've visited.


Day 1, sat. June 15, 2013
Departing from Jakarta on 14th of June at 19.50 with 1 hour transit in Singapore.

Arrival on Istanbul Ataturk airport at 06.10am by TK67. The temperature was 29 degrees, Well, to be honest i was curious for what happen in Gezi park, Taksim square but i proceeded to check in for domestic flight heading to Kayseri by TK 2026 at 09.50am. Its funny how i packed masker, eye drop & nasal nosk (personal air filtration) into my hand carry bag just in case :)

Arrived at 11.10 driving about 1 hour to Mustafa otel. Sight seeing,  Kaymakli underground city, 3 beauties rock, panoramic view, Turasan oldest wine store,











More than 100 underground dwellings in Cappadocia area. The Kaymaklı underground City carved by the Hittites 12-13th Centuries BC. Not as continues dwelling but a kind of shelter against the enemies, and it was used by the people till about 13th Centuries AD. (after Crusader and Mongolian invasions the underground cities were not used by the people any more).














7 stories underground has got ventilation chimneys, wells, kitchens, graveyards, bedrooms, worshiping corners. big and heavy  circular closing stones of the entrances.

 

























Three beauties panoramic view



For a shopping lover, i found one jewelry store that maybe your interest. You may see this jewelry store before you visit and buy your selection.
 
Day 2, sun. June 16, 2013
Started 04.15am for early ride balloon in Cappadocia, Goreme open air museum, fairy chimney rocks, hacibektas (center of Bektasi sect of Islam), Pigeon valley, folkdance & belly dance performance at Uranos sarikaya
 



instruction card will be distributed prior the departure
At the register office, you will be served an early morning breakfast before departing to the balloon-ride area. Since this is 4am, you are suggested to wear a jacket & comfortable clothe (pants) so you can easily jump in & out from the basket. 

Those minivans are ready to take you to the balloon-ride area, don't be too much excited by getting into the van randomly. You must follow the instruction & gather with your group with the appointed pilot.








The reasons of departing early morning is because less windy so we can spend longer times up in the air to enjoy the beautiful landscape from 5000 ft height. The number of sorties that morning was more than 70, it looked like a colorful garden with beautiful flower.

If you are lucky enough, you can see Mt. Erciyes (Erciyes Dağı)
3916 meters behind the beautiful sunrise.

 It's the highest mountain in central Anatolia, there are winter sports facilities on the mountain, usually accessed from nearby Kayseri




After about 2 hours admiring the breathtaking  landscape of Cappadocia, it is the time for landing. Its so interesting to see the ritual for those people who succeeded this morning flight. officers on ground under the basket was ready to pull the balloon and tie it on the vehicle he was carrying. then he took a handful of soil where we landed and threw it into the air. He did this twice. Then after a perfect landing basket, he began to pick flowers or grass and put it in the basket so it looks cute and lovely. While our pilot preparing some champagne & snacks we chatted with the other passengers & took some pictures.

Well, it was really a good way to start the day ! 




 
Goreme valley was monastic dwelling area from 5th(or 6th Cent. to 13th Cent.:  Goreme valley has got more than 70 rock cut churches. a number of them has got frescoes (wall paintings) with natural dies. Some of these frescoes are from the iconoclast periods with symbolical designs


















 CHAPEL OF ST. CATHERINE


Situated between the Karanlik (dark) church & the Carikli church. The chapel of St. Catherine has a free cross nave & narthex. The central bay is covered by a dome & the cross arms are barrel vaulted. Its apse is closed by a templon. The narthex has 9 floor graves & 2 arcosolia (burial niches). Only in the nva of the chapel are some decorations with figures. The pendentives are decorated with carvings. The chapel of St. Catherine built by a donor named Anna dates back to the 11th century.












 




Hacı Bektasi Veli, (13th Centuries) is one of the  Islamic philosophers of the 'Age of Enlightment' of Islamic Thought. Still he has followers in about 40 countries in the Islam World.
This is beautiful quotation from the inscription in Hacı Bektaş Veli's museum in District of Hacibektas, Province of Nevsehir, Cappadocia, Central Anatolia



Search and find

Educate the women

Even if you are hurt, don't hurt

Sages are pure sometimes purifiers

First stage of attainment is modesty

Whatever you look for, search in you

Don't forget even your enemy is human

Control your hand, your word, your lust

Beauty of human is in the beauty of his words

Prophets and saints are God’s gift to humanity

Road that doesn't go through science is perilous

Don't try to find faults neither in nation nor individual

How nice to ones who put light in the darkness of thought

Don't do anything to anyone if you don't want it to be done to you

Peace be with you (Huu dost!)




The entrance of the theater of Uranos Sarikaya.















This is the time you must bring your cam recorder, believe me!




The famous belly dancing.


















































In the closing of the performance after the audience gather on the dance floor, they sang the national anthem and unfurled the national flag with full pride. Great performance, they deserve standing applause.





Day 3, mon. June 17, 2013
Drive to Ankara, visit Anitkabir. Drop by at caravanseray, saltlake, Cinci Han then Proceed to Safanbolu






Caravansarai is a mediavel Hotel for the Camel traders, mainly for silk road travellers. And the Mediavel Cathedrals' designs were drawn inspirations from the caravansarai designs.






AGZIKARAHAN (HOCA MESUT CARAVANSERAI) 1231-1239



This a typical caravanserai which situated on the Aksaray Kayseri high way, it has 2 parts, one open & one covered which are used for summer & winter time the open part was built by Aleattin Keykubat in 1231 & covered part was built by Giyaseddin Keyhusrev in 1239 T has 2 inscriptions. According to the inscriptions which is on the covered part’s gate, it was built by Hoca bin Abdullah, the entrance is in the side of the building it has a castle like epperance with it’s heavy strong gate & turrets.
The kiosk mescit (small pavilion mosque) stands in courtyard this is the 3rd largest caravanserai after Aksaray-Kayseri caravanserai most of the ornaments are found of the portals. Kiosk mescit & covered part’s dome.












Safranbolu Cinci Han is one of the big, little mixed caravanserays established on Historical Silk Road laying from China to Anatolia Land throughout the centuries. Cinci Han was built by Karabaszade Huseyin Efendi in 1645. The architect of the Han is unknown but it was supposed that it was built by Mimar Kasim Aga – one of the main architects in that period. Cinci Han which was used as caravanseray until the 20th century when the silkroad lost its values has served in different areas in Safranbolu since that time. Being completed by restoration in 2004 by DKB Joint Stock Company Cinci Han Hotel has started its tourism activities.
There are 23 standards, 1 suite, 1 room of the Agha which are restored originally. Cinci Han has served tourism by Develik Restaurant, Gocergenlik Cafe & Bar – conference saloon.


























The huge museum of Anitkabir

i think it takes more than a whole day to visit the entire museum





Anıtkabir (literally, "memorial tomb") is the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the leader of the Turkish War of Independence and the founder and first President of the Republic of Turkey. It is located in Ankara and was designed by architects Professor Emin Onat and Assistant Professor Ahmet Orhan Arda, whose proposal beat 48 other entries from several countries in a competition held by the Turkish Government in 1941 for a "monumental tomb" for Atatürk.

The site is also the final resting place of İsmet İnönü, the second President of Turkey, who was interred there after he died in 1973. His tomb faces the Atatürk Mausoleum, on the opposite side of the Ceremonial Ground.

The mausoleum was depicted on various Turkish banknotes during 1966-1987 and 1997-2009.












Day 4, tue. June 18, 2013
Black sea, amasra castle, kuskayasi yol aniti/ bird monument, old dwelling of safranbolu, yoruk village, blacksmith guild bazaar, yemeniciler arastasi, stay in Zalifre Hotel













AMASRA KALESI

(THE CASTLE OF AMASRA)



The Castle of Amasra was built during the Roman period. The walls of the castle were built by Byzantines, the front walls & the gates were built by the Genoese in the 14th & 15th centuries to guarantee the defence. The city walls surround the Boztepe & Zindan districts which together form two island masses. The two islands were then joined by the Kemere Bridge (built during the Roman period). The city walls were made of large stone blocks. They were reinforced with turrets, arranged in square formations. The Castle of Amasra is an important relic that reflects the Middle Ages.



























LEYLA GENCER/ AYSE LEYLA CEYREKGIL (Oct. 10, 1928 – May 10, 2008)


Was a world reknowned Turkish operatic soprano. She was born in Istanbul as the daughter of Ibrahim Ceyrek from the Yoruk Koyu & Lexandra Angela Minakovska from Poland. Known as “La Diva Turca” (The Turkish Diva) & “La Regina” (The Queen) in the opera world. Gencer was a notable bel canto than seventy roles, she made very few commercial recordings. However numerous bootleg recorelings of her performances exist. In particular, Gencer was associated with heroines of Donizetti.









i feel that i must put this picture because it will always remind me of my friend's effort to look for Raki 25cl for me to bring to Jakarta. After searching in mall with disappointment, we finally found it in Istanbul. Yes, im lucky because 25cl will be no longer produce.

Btw, fruits are amazing here!! i love being pampered with those fresh fruits.







Day 5, wed. June 19, 2013

Günaydın Istanbul !




C/i Euro hotel. Visit Suleymaniye mosque, orthodox church, Chora, yerebatan sarnici, dolmahbace palace, archaeological museum, Ist. Universitesi, phanar Greek orthodox college, mimar sinan,




 

Suleymaniye Mosque was built on 1 of the 7 beautiful hills of Istanbul for Kanuni Sultan Suleyman (the magnificent) by Mimar (the architect) Sinan in 1557. It was built in 7 years (1550-1557). Within its building complex are found medreses, a hospital, a hospice, a Turkish bath, etc.
The magnificent Suleymaniye that is considered the greatest mosque of Istanbul was built with its complex on an area nearly 63,000 sqm. The building is conspicuous for its simple construction acoustic, colorful, stained glass windows, very precious granite columns, soot room, sadiryan (water tank with a fountain), 4 minarets & 10 serefe (minaret balcony). Its inside area is 3,422sqm. The diameter of its dome is 27,25m & the height of the dome is 48,5m.
The building cost of the mosque & its complex was 59,760,180 akces (700,000 gold dikas) & 3523 craftsmen worked on its construction. Its corner stone was set by S.E Efendi & its door was opened to pray by Mimar Sinan.
There was a wakf (fund) that supported the mosque. It had 271 properties that included 2 islands & 217 villages. The wages of 275 personnel of the mosque & 331 personnelof the other buildngs int the complex were paid by that wakf.
The magnificent temple was damaged from a fire in 1660 & then it was restored in the reign of Sultan Abdulmecid (1839-1860). All columns were covered with cement & oil paint in 1956. The paints were scraped off and the minarets, the dome & the vaults were restored.
The founder of the mosque, Kanuni Sultan Suleyman was buried in the graveyard that is in front of the mosque. The tomb of Mimar Sinan is out of the garden at the north east side of the mosque.



The interesting from Suleymaniye camii for me is when i saw the Ostrich Egg lined up next to the lamps hanging in circle over the praying area. It is believed to prevent cobwebs & ants. I didn't find this in other mosques that i've visited (Sultan Ahmet, Selimiye, etc). 








SULEYMANIYE, Istanbul


After a decline of Seljuks in Anatolia a brief interlude followed before another dynasty, the Ottoman began to subjugate their neighbors int he 14th century. Overcoming the set back of Timur’s invasions within the next 2 centuries, they came to dominate western Islam as well as conquering south-east Europe, including the old Byzantine capital of Constantinople which became the centre of western Islamic civilization.
The Ottoman introduced new developments in architecture. Their great achievement was the monumental domed mosque plan in which a central domes pans a uniform space, the perfect circle on thr perfect square with a uniform system of vaulting. An early nstep was taken at Bursa, the old Ottoman capital in the late 14th century where the rectangular great mosque has 20 domes in 4 rows of 5. Following the capture of Constantinople in 1453 the great dome & spacious interior of Hagia Sophia exerted some influence. After 2 centuriesof development the scheme was fully realized in the Ottoman ‘Golden Age’ of Suleyman I (Suleyman the Magnificent 1520-66), in the hand of great architect, Sinan who finally in the Selimiye in Edirne achieved the final resolution of the problem of supporting the domes while maximizing the spatial concept.
The earlier Suleymaniye complex covers an area of about 650,000sq ft (60,000sqm) & includes colleges, hospitals, hostels, tombs & many other features as well as the great mosque. It was founded in 1550 & built by Sinan. Its his largest building & many consider it his greatest & it has been the chief mosque of Istanbul ever since. Suleyman had already reigned for 30 years when he commissioned the building & he clearly intended it to be a monument of unparalleled magnificence. The overall proportions, observing strict ratios, indicate unusually careful planning. The main dome is 174ft (53m) high & its surrounded by a cluster of cupolas, arches & semi domes. There are more than 500 subsidiary domes in the whole complex. The workmanship is peerless & the decorations though that’s secondary in Sinan’s geometrical masterpieces is of a similarly high order & includes tiles from the famous Iznik potteries.





MIMAR SINAN CADDESI (MIMAR SINAN AVENUE)


Mimar Sinan Avenue within the borders of Suleymaniye Neighborhood in Fatih derives its name from Mimar Sinan who gained many important works such as Suleymaniye Mosque. The name of Mimar Sinan Avenue was given to the avenue next to Kuliye of Suleymaniye Mosque. Mimar Sinan was born in the village of Agirnas in Kayseri. Sinan who was a Christian was brought to Istanbul through the system of devshirme during the reign of Selim II & was recruited in the guild of Janisseries. Mimar Sinan who is known as Koca (Great) Mimar Sinan Aga became the chief architect during the reign of Suleyman the Magnificent, Selim II & Murad III. He fulfilled this service for 40 years. The first work of Mimar Sinan who is also the architect of many great works is Haseki Kuliye  constructed in the name of Hurrem Sultan. After becoming the chief architect ht produced his 3 major works. The 1st of these is Sehzade Mosque & Kulliye which became an example for the following ones. The 2nd one is Suleymaniye Mosque & kulliye which is his most important work in Istanbul & called “my appreticeship period work” by himself. The other important work which he calls “my masterpiece” is Selimiye Mosque in Edirne. Mimar Sinan who constructed many mosques, madrasah, hospitals, bridges, Turkish baths, caravanserais etc was also interested in restoration. He restored the dome of Hagia Sophia. He enabled the demolishment of the shops built next to historical works since they damaged the appearance. He also pointed out the fires which broke out because the streets are narrow & he enacted about it. He was also intensely interested in the walkways of Istanbul. Mimar Sinan who dealt with many important works & gained important works especially in Istanbul died in 1588 in Istanbul. He is buried in the mausoleum ehich he had made next to the Suleymaniye Mosque.





For further information regarding Orthodox Patriarchate of Istanbul, you may visit St. George
 


















again, i feel so lucky to have a chance to visit this place, to be able to touch the fragment of the pillar of the flagellation of Christ.

































 Below Chora Museum

 
St. Savior (Kariye Museum) Chora Church  Eyüp, Kariye Cami Sk No:26, İstanbul - Avrupa, Turkey
 +90 212 631 9241



















The museum



 

Famous for its mosaics & frescoes.
frescoes are a bit before the Western renaissance paintings.

I would suggest you to record/ filming rather than photographed.
























































 









While walking down the street you may also taste the tamarind juice served in some Lokum store. That may freshen up your afternoon walk rather than having çay (turkish tea) or Ayran (turkish yoghurt). The pronunciation of çay reminds me of 'cai' in sundanese means water.

How about Turkish ice cream...i dont like it. Sorry...i’d better to have lots of cherry or mineral water. Btw, i’m missing chilli so much here. They only have in powder. It gives taste only. I saw some store hanging bunches of cayennes to be dried, but why they don't serve it fresh or cook it in some dishes? Not to mention their pickels is too salty, i was expecting to get the chilli from the pickels but the salty taste is killing me. I thought pickels should be sour, no? But these all are nothing compared with the hospitality of Turkish people.

















ISTANBUL UNIVERSITESI REKTORLUK BINASI (RECTORATE BUILDING OF ISTANBUL UNIVERSITESI)

The building used as rectorate building by Istanbul University, The Oldest University of Turkey today is on the area of old palace built by Mehmed II in 1458 in Istanbul. At the place of the building which was heavily damaged by the fire in 16th & 17th centuries after the removal of Janisseries Army by Mahmud II in 1826 the area was provided to Supreme Military Command & in 1836 Bab-i Seraskerat was established. The inscriptions on the famous main gate of the university were written by Kazasker Mustafa Celebi. At the place of the wooden building demolished in 1864 it was rebuilt by French architect Bourgeois in a rectangular plan made of stone & as 3 floors on the base floor. It was renamed The Ministry of War in 1879. After the earthquake in 1894 in Istanbul it was renovated by Architect Raimondo d’Aranco. By the declaration of Republic in 1923, Ministry of National Defense, it  moved to Ankara. The building was given to Daru’l Funun. It started to be used as The Central Building of Istanbuil University with the law of “University Reform” in 1933. It was renovated by Architect Hakki Ayverdi in 1933 & 1950.








 

This one is no less interesting...
I was also trying my luck when my dear friend bought some local lottery tickets Milli Piyango.

I found this worth to try, what do you think want to try your luck?
















The Basilica Cistern, located in the historical peninsula of Istanbul is one of the few early architectural examples that have survived till the present age. The  glamorous underground cistern was built during the reign of Emperor Justinianus in the 6th century, the age of glory for eastern Rome.
The Cistern is 140m long & 79m wide & covers a total area of 9,800sqm. There are 336 marble columns in the cistern, each 9m high. The columns are arranged in 12 rows each consisting of 28 columns.
The capitals of columns are mainly in the Ionic & Corinthian styles with the exception of a few Doric style with no engravings.
The cistern is surrounded by a firebrick wall with a thickness of 4m & coated with a special mortar for insulation against water.
The cistern’s water was provided from the Belgrade woods, which lie 19km north of the city, via aquaducts built by emperor Justinianus.
The cracks & the columns were repaired in 1968 having been restored in 1985 by Istanbul metropolitan municipality. The cistern was once again open to the public on September 9, 1987.
The two Medusa’s head columns found in the northwest corner of the cistern are the great examples of the Roman age art sculptures.












007 From Russia with Love: Some scenes were filmed in the  Underground Cistern. The big carps are interesting 2 watch in the water



The water is the rain water leakage, nowadays. Not carried with the aquaduct











Dolmabahçe Sarayı

 http://www.dolmabahcepalace.com/

Dolmabahçe Cad.  34357 Beşiktaş, Turkey
+90 212 236 9000


Its closed on Monday & Thursday



























SUN DIAL IN DOLMAHBACE


During the Ottoman period the Hijri Calendar (Moon Calendar) & the Gurubi time (time system to calculate the adhan-prayer call time) was used. According to the Gurubi time, the beginning of the new day was considered as the sunset moment. It is regarded as 12.00 or 0.00 while the sun sets over the horizon, right at the moment when the upper side of the edge of the sun becomes tangent with the horizon line.
Generally during the Ottoman Period, docks with ‘level screen’ in which the location where one stands was either parallel to the horizon or vertical to it were used. The paralleled one is called as desktop & the other as wall style. The rods of the sundials with “level screen” is either with straight angle to the clock level or with an angle as slanted as the angle of that location’s latitude. The slanted rod’s free end is directed towards the north pole (the geographical north). In the sundials with rods that have a straight angle, the shadow of the end point of the rod & in the ones with slanted angled rods, the directions of the shadow of the rod indicates the time. In the western world the first type is called as ‘gnomon’ & the second type as ‘polos’. The rod of the slanted angled sundials are generally made in form of a triangular blade in order to prevent the angle of the rod to the latitude change because of the external factors. Both of the sundials are named as ‘Sun Saati – Sun Clock’ in the modern day Turkish language & during the Ottoman period they were named as ‘Basita’.
Sundials are ‘real’ & ‘local’ time indicators that depend on the state of the sun. As the orbit of the sphere to the sun is an ellipse in chich focal point is the sun & that the sphere doesn’t proceed over this orbit level & that the sun constantly changes location between the Tropics of Cancer & Capricorn, the length of the day time changes throughout the year.
In the Gurubi sundials, the time lines that goes by the horizon axis these number 6 towards the north, 0 towards the east & 12 towards the west. This division is pertained to the days 21 March & 23 September in which day & night times are equal. The time of prayers are only read directly on these days in the screen. To determine the prayer times other than during these 2 days, a chart that includes the times lags needed to add or subtract from the value read from the hour plate was used. These charts are arranged for the days enumerated from 1 to 60 in each of 12 signs/ horoscopes while the sun is advancing the ecliptic zone.
The sundials of Dolmahbace Palace is a vertical leveled,d ektop style sundial & its rod is 41 degrees slanted as this is the latitude of Istanbul. Its hour plate made of marble has a 104cm diameter, 9 cm thickness & its height from the ground is about 1 meters. It was made during the second half of the 19th century.



Day 6, thur. June 20, 2013
This is the time for visiting some Catholic churches around Istanbul such as St. Mary of drappery (Meryem Ana Draperis Latin Katolik Kilisesi), Sent Antuan, Latin Katolik Kilisesi,  St. Anthony of Padua, and main post office building.



Here are lists of some Catholic Church in Istanbul


The most beautiful Catholic church in Istanbul built in 1912
















More than 200 churches in the town, one third of them are active. about 100 of them are Greek Orthodox churches.but, the Greek Orthodox people are the very few nowadays. Seems the Armenians one of the big Christian communities. The ethnic Armenians belong Armenian Gregorian Church. But since 18 and 19 Centuries,the Armenians has also Catholic and Protestant Churches. Another important Christian group is Assyrians, who mainly belong Greek Assyrian Church(The ethnic church, the prayers are in Aramic language) Few of them belong catholic and protestant ethnic churches. The Catholic community with a number of churches is over 12,000. And different Protestant communities has their own places to worship.


There are small communities such as Seventh Day Adventist church, Mormon Church etc, Russian Orthodox Church, Turkish Orthodox Church etc.


























The Istanbul Main Post Office (Turkish: Büyük Postane) is an office building for postal services located at Sirkeci quarter of Fatih district in Istanbul, Turkey. It was designed by architect Vedat Tek in First Turkish National architectural style and was constructed between 1905 and 1909. The four-story building houses a post office, the Sirkeci Post Office (Turkish: Sirkeci PTT Merkezi), office space for regional administration and also since 2000 the Istanbul Postal Museum (Turkish: PTT İstanbul Müzesi). It is Turkey's largest post office building.




Initially planned for use as the building of Ministry of Post and Telegraph (Ottoman Turkish: Posta ve Telgraf Nezareti) in the Ottoman Empire, its construction began in 1905, and was completed in 1909. An inscription in Ottoman Turkish alphabet on the tiled panel above the main entrance denotes "Ministry of Post and Telegraph". The building was renamed "New Post Office" (Turkish: Yeni Postane) in the 1930s, some time after the establishment of the Turkish Republic, and then "Grand Post Office" (Turkish: Büyük Postane) In the early years of the Republic, between 1927 and 1936, the building temporarily housed Istanbul Radio.From 1958 on, it was used solely for postal and telegraphy services. Today, the ground floor is the Sirkeci Post Office, the first floor is occupied by its directorate while the second and third floors are offices for the regional post directorate of Istanbul's European side. On May 6, 2000, part of the building was converted into Istanbul Postal Museum occupying four stories. The museum informs visitors about the history of communication and telecommunication services in the country that officially began on October 23, 1840. The museum consists of four sections for post, telegraph, telephone and postage stamps.

The Main Post Office is situated in close distance to Spice Bazaar, New Mosque, Sirkeci Railway Terminal and Istanbul 4th Vakıf Han, which is a five-star hotel today. Architect Vedat Tek (1873–1942) designed the building as one of the earliest examples of First Turkish National architecture style. The four-story building has a floor area of (3,200 m2 (34,000 sq ft)). The main entrance is elevated reachable by stairs in front of the building. The building is flanked by two turrets. The facade is of cut stone and marble. It is believed that the bricks were specially designed by Vedat Tek. 16th century style classical Ottoman decorative elements are predominant in the building's ornaments including its facade with two-color stone workmanship, tiled panels with Islamic geometric patterns and Kufic calligraphic scripts, sills with tiled panels as well as muqarnas in pillar heads and corbels. The main entrance opens to a very large atrium in the center of the building. The three-story high, rectangle shaped hall is surrounded by office rooms at each floor. The atrium is topped by glass in mainly orange and blue colors.
(From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

Day 7, fri. June 21, 2013
Driving to Edirne: visit Trakya universitesi complex of sultan bayezid II, gunet sahatlar fakultesi, Selimiye Camii, kirkpinar oil wrestling festival (unesco intangible cultural heritage), new imperial place, tower of justice, old house of bahai leader & the cemetery, edirne merkez buyuk sinagog







SELIMIYE, Edirne


Edirne (Adrianople) near the point where the modern bounderies of Turkey, Greece & Bulgaria meet was the Ottoman capital for nearly a century before the capture of Istanbul (Constantinople) in 1453. The complex of the Selimiye begun in 1569 was built almost 20 years after the similar Suleymaniye in the reign of Suleyman I’s son & successor, Selim II (1566-74), although here the mosqe itself is even more dominant.
Most experts including, its said the architect himself regard the Edirne mosque as Sinan’s masterpiece. Its the final result of years of development in making the most of the central space of the mosque which here conveys a prefect sense of order & calm. The dome is 104ft (32m) in diameter, approximately the same size as Hagia Sophia & 137ft (42m) high. Its buttressed by a circle of walls & half domes & main thrust is skilfully distributed via arches to 8 columns but they are positioned so close to the walls that they appear to be part of them. The result is that seen from the floor, the dome seems to float effortlessly without obvious support & the sense of weightlessness is amplified by the numerous reltively large windows. The minarets which at over 230ft (70m) in height are even taller than those of the Suleymaniye are shifted from the usual position at the corners of the courtyard to the corners of the mosque itself & ths help to emphasize its compactness & upward movement. They each have 3 balconies with seperate staircases. The decoration is of the highest standard with outstanding fine Iznik tiles in the apse of the mihrab.
Sinan died within a few years of the completion of the Selimiye & Ottoman art & architecture would lose its originality & dynamism int he 17th century but his heritage lived on the early


17th century mosque of Sultan Ahmet I, in Istanbul by possible student of his, Sedefkar Mehmet Aga.


D.M Field, The World Greatest Architecture (past & present)























EDIRNE’S SARAY-I CEDID-I AMIRE  (NEW IMPERIAL PALACE)

Other than 2 significant palaces built in Edirne during the Ottoman era, the Saray-i Atik (Old Palace) & the Saray-i Cedid-i Amire (New Imperal Palace, a number of notables are known to have built mansions & pavilions (Bucuktepe Palace, Mamak Palace, Akpinar Village Palace) in various parts of the city, in particular along the banks of the Tunca & Meric rivers. With the exception of portions of the Saray-i Cedid-i Amire (New Imperial Palace), none of these extant today. Indeed, even their original locations are unknown.


The building program of the New Imperial palace started in the last years of Murad II’s reign, in what is today the Sarayici Quarter of Edirne to the west of the Tunca River & eventually became a large complex with extensions & renovations dateable to almost every era. This palace, significant portions of which were built during the reign of Mehmed II (1451-1481), was comprised of nearly a hundred structures with various functions & was spread over a vast expanse.


The new imperial palace remained in use for centuries & was witness to many important historical events (e.g. Mehmed IV’s circumcision feast, the Ottoman-Russo Wars & the Balkan Wars, etc). In the closing decades of the 19th & early 20th centuries, during the 1874 Ottoman-Russo War & the 1910-19-12 Balkan Wars, the palace suffered much destruction & many of its buildings were destroyed. As a result only a few of its original structures are extant today. Among these are: Matbah-i Amire (Royal Kitchens), Babussaade (Entrance Gateway), Cihannuma Kasri (Eye on the World Pavillion), Kum Kasri (Sand Pavillion), Hamami (Bath house), Adalet Kasri (Justice Pavillion), Fatih Koprusu (Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror’s Bridge), Kanuni Koprusu (Sultan Suleyman The lawgiver’s Bridge), Sehabeddin Pasa Koprusu (Sehabiddin Pasa’s Bridge), Av Kosku (Hunting Lodge), Su Maksemi (Water Depot), Namazgahli Cesme (Fountain with Open Air Mosque). While some of these structures are in ruins, others are preserved & are currently undergoing restoration as part of the ongoing archaelogical excavations of the palace complex under the directions of Assoc. Prof. Dr. Mustafa Ozer of Bahcesehir University.


Parts of the New Imperial Palace which had been damaged during the Russion invasion of Edirne in August 1829 & subsequently repaired were being used as an arsenal in the 19th century. Following a new Russian assault on Edirne in 1874, the Ottoman Commander in charge (in order to prevent the weapons stored within it failing into enemy hands) order the explosion of the Palace, resulting in the destruction of most of its structure only a small amount of which survived.


From the documents & publications at hand we knowthat Edirne’s New Imperial Palace was comprised of: 117 Chambers, 21 Divanhanes, 18 Hamams, 8 Mescits, 17 Doors, 13 Dormitories, 4 Cellars, 5 Kitchens, 17 Pavillions & 6 Bridges. Doubtlessly, these figures are going to be morecredibl eafter the examinations of archival documents & the excavations currently being carried out in the field are completed.


Some publications claim that at one time as many as 34,000 people were living in Edirne’s New Imperial Palace, in addition to 6000 employees, that is a total number of 40,000 people.


Edirne’s New Imperial Palace is not only an important cultural monument for Turkiye but alsi for the whole world. It is particularly significant site for the Ottoman archaelogy & for those attempting to recreate life in the Ottoman Palaces. In recent years, restoration & maintenance operations are ongoing, thanks to the institutional interest & support provided by the President of the Turkish Grand National Assembly, the Turkish Ministry of Culture & Tourism, the Edirne’s Governor’s Office, and Istanbul’s Bahcesehir University. Their support has made a positive impact on the preservation & restoration of this important site which had been ignored throughout most of the twentieth century.












FUNER RUM LISESI (PHANAR GREEK ORTHODOX COLLEGE)



Phanar Greek Orthodox College & Primary School also known as The Red School or The Old School is publicly known as the red school since the present building was built with the red brick brought from France afre the decree by Mehmed II in 1454 which allows it for the Orthodox people to have their education in their own language. A school was established in Phanar & their educatuion started. The school which was known as Church Academy & Greek Old School in due course was given wide opportunities. The school turned into high school giving classical education in 1861. It present glorious building was built by Architect Konstantin Dimadis in 1881. The land of the school building was endowed by Moldovian Prince Dimitri Kantemir who was a graduate of this school. The building consists of a basis & 3 floors. Its dome has the height of 40m from bottom to top & it has an area of 3020m2 available for use. It is said that its panoramic view resembles the figure of eagle.


At last, my vacation is over.  Time to say ... i'll see you soon... Nemrut Dağı :)
That was on my head along the way back from Edirne to Airport accompanied by Rebetiko - Greek folk music in the car. 

By the way, i almost forgot my weary of being in the place where the incident is still heating up until i received information that Singapore was shrouded in haze as smoke from forest fire in Sumatra that may cause some delayed-flight or rescheduling. Oh, God...

Ok, there's nothing i can do about it. Allah korusun !



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